Here are some questions and answers from Emily's mailbox.
Q: I brought home Silver Dollar seeds and I want to know what is the best thing to do with them. In the wild, they fall off the silver dollars on the ground and the next year they come up. Should I drop them on the ground now and hope for the best?
A: Lunaria annua called variously, the money plant, silver dollar plant, or honesty.
Save the seeds until early summer / late spring and just sow them on the ground. We always left some on the bush to see if they self-seeded - which they sometimes did.
Q: I have to move a blue hydrangea out from under a black walnut hanging over from my neighbor's yard. I would like to exchange it with a young smokebush that is on the other side of the yard. Question: Is the red smokebush going to be OK underneath the walnut? I cannot find it on any of the lists on the internet.
A: I am not familiar with the smokebush plant. However, the American Horicultural Society's A-Z Encyclopedia of Gardening Plants says "...well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. Purple-leaved forms color best in full sun." It also says that they grow to 10-15 ft (width and height).
Therefore, I'm not sure that planting it underneath the walnut is such a good idea. Too much shade, too little room?
You can try to look for it on the Internet under the Latin name of Cotinus coggygria.
Q: I found your site in the newspaper this morning, under "Top Ten Web Picks of the Week". It’s the Modesto Bee, in Central California. It is a good choice because it is so professional-looking. What a terrific job you’ve done!
Is there a place on your site where I can learn more about growing tomatoes? I planted them for the first time last year and was really pleased at the size of them. I had a problem though, in that many of them split at the top. What caused this? I’d like to be able to head that off at the pass this year, if possible. Thanks for any help you direct my way.
A: Sadly, I have not gotten around to discussing tomatoes, but it is one of the main things I grow for veggies.
My hints are
- Growing the proper hybrids and selections for your area, and for yourself as well.
- Always throwing a generous amount of compost and good potting soil in the tomato hole.
- Mulching when the time comes.
- Regular watering.
- Regular fertilizing.
- Six hours of sun plus... and this is important.
- Pruning off and picking when need be....... keep the plant in production by harvesting the tomatoes.
- Co-plant with marigolds.
- Use a garlic water spray for bugs.
- Give them room to grow/ cage for support and use stocking for tie ups.
- Never let the plant get in distress.
Q: We love our Petunias and bought lots for our garden and they did so well this past summer (Fayetteville, North Carolina), but now, with the winter, and recently cold weather, they look terrible. Should we cut them back to the ground and cover with mulch AND will they come back in the Spring?
A: Petunias like a tad more warm weather than what you have been getting lately in your area. They may winter over and then again they may be just your annual for the year.
I would mulch around them and hope for the best.
Do not cut back till the spring.
I am afraid you may be replanting them next spring.
Q: I have a large, lush bird of paradise plant in my front yard. It is getting ready to bloom. I live in Sacramento, California. I have a friend who wants to come and take some sort of cutting or piece of this plant to start her own?? She claims this will not hurt the plant...that she can take a large piece and it will just cause it to grow back bigger. I am reluctant to allow this to occur... Can you advise? Is it safe to do this? How is it done? Should I let her touch it at all while it is about to bloom? Will I impact the plant to allow someone to do this? Please advise ASAP... Thank you.
A: My suggestion would be to wait 'til after your Bird of Paradise has bloomed to share any cuttings. The plant needs all the energy to give you a nice performance; I would hate to see anything diminish that production. After the plant has bloomed you can wait for the bloom to produce seeds (and then share the mature seeds), or you can propagate by division or by cuttings afterwards.
Q: How & when is the best time to root gardenias? I have a cutting from my dad's gardenia bush. He is up in age & I want to start a plant from his clipping to one day remember him by every time I smell the fragrance of this plant.
A: You can propagate the gardenia plant from leaf cuttings in the spring and summer. Or by division.
Q: Help - I have a goldfish plant - it was very healthy & lots of flowers on it but now it has this white sticky stuff on it.
A: I would wash the plant with soap and water ... or use an commercial insecticidal soap.
It is hard to "'see" if you have a disease or an insect problem.... Doing the wash will give you a start.
I would try to get an ID on the problem.
My educated guess is mealy bug...... If so, a Q-tip of rubbing alcohol will swab up the area.
Hope this helps a little.
Q: I have come across Iris (I believe they're old) and I can dig as much as I want. I pulled up old 'tags' with names and dates---Sunrise Sunset TB Williamson 80---and many others. I am digging up what I can and want to know how I can find out if these are just plain old Iris or something special. The ranch has beds and beds of them. Is there some kind of book that lists the different names? I know Iris are named and some are quite expensive. Any suggestions? I am in zone 8 near San Antonio, TX.
A: I think you have found a gold mine in value and appreciation.
Your best bet is to contact and view the American Iris Society: www.irises.org and www.worldiris.com. You will get a good connection and research to what you have.
Also there may be a local chapter in Texas that could help. (Try Argyle Acres Iris Gardens for starters).
Q: I was given a clipping of a "goldfish plant." I can find nothing about this plant and have no idea what to do with it. Can you help me?
A: The goldfish plant is also known as a Hypocyrta.
It's origin is from Mexico, so keep that in mind when trying to provide the proper environment for it .
Your 'clipping' or stem cuttings do well in the fall, and the seed will propagate in any season.
The plant will enjoy warm nights and day temperatures of up to 80 degrees.
This plant will prefer bright indirect sun. And will grow well in full sun during the winter. If you summer the plant out, partial shade will do or acclimate it slowly to sun.
It is excellent for hanging baskets
Water regularly and keep evenly moist. The thinner the leaf of a plant the more water it will require.
It does come under the attack of aphids/thrip/mealy bug/white fly and the usual pests...... treat as you would treat any of these insects. I personally would do the soap trick first.
You can pinch back to keep this plant bushy.
Keep the soil light with peat moss.
You can fertilize once a month and drop off during the winter somewhat.
The flowers as you probably know are bright orange to red.
Hope this helps a little.
Q: Can you separate and thin ice plant? If so, can you do that in the fall while daily temperatures are warm (70 and low 80's)? Also, do you need to take big clumps and roots?
A: Yes, you can separate ice plant. It is a succulent and as long the temps do stay mild you should be able to propagate the plant. Make somewhat good bunches so there is a good survival rate. Too much watering and moisture will tend to rot out the roots.
Q: I am interested in knowing how to plant, fertilize and compost or mulch in clay soil on a hillside in Novato, California. The lavender and euroyops are turning yellow; they were planted with drip systems and in the clay soil a year ago.
Also, will the hillside fall down if I plant and water too much?
A: Planting and growing in clay soils are most frustrating.
I recommend adding as much organic material as possible to the clay soil. Work in everything you can possible get your hands on and start a compost pile if you can.
Making levels to your hillside is probably wise. And a ground cover where you an to stop erosion.
Do not over water anything on your hillside until well established and then careful. Plants acclimate after a time to normal rainfall unless they are annuals.
Q: I received a small, planted mum about 6 weeks ago. It had yellow flowers and was very pretty. The stick said it needed lots of sun and to keep it moist. It is sitting in my windowsill here at work. I water it regularly and still it is not looking very well these days. Do I need to cut off the old blooms? Should I take it home and plant it in my yard? It does have some new green leaves growing, but the old blooms are somewhat shriveled.
A: Yes, take the plant home and plant it in the garden.
Most plants that are given as gifts that are mums have been grown in a greenhouse as a florist plant and are out of sync with the mums that grow seasonally out of doors. It also is known as a hot house mum so very tender and not acclimated to growing outside.
However, there is a chance it might grow for you, but again it might be out of sync for a season or so.
It needs full sun, good drainage and mulch it well. It should winter over for you and depending what zone you live in will dictate when it will bloom.
Generally speaking the mums bloom in the fall in the northern zones and will bloom or can bloom twice in the southern zones .
Pinch back in the early spring the buds so it will not peak too soon and the plant will become bushier along the way.
Pinch off the old blooms that you have now....
Q: I live in The Boston area. Every year I have fungus (red thread, I believe) that destroys approximately 30/40% of my grass plants. Every year at Labor Day I aerate the lawn, put plenty of the slow release palletized lime down, re-seed and fertilize with step 3 of Scotts 4 step lawn fertilizer program.
I am writing you to find out what I can/should be doing to try to eliminate the fungus. I of course have contacted Scotts Lawn Care Products and they recommend I use their fungus control product. I have in the past, and it does work to some degree, however, it works more as an inhibitor than a preventer.
Can you tell me what I should be doing or where I might go on the Internet to get some answers to this chronic problem?
A: Fungus grows because there is too much organic material around, sometimes wetness or dampness, darkness, and depending if the host is air borne or not it may becoming form some direction.
Yes a fungicide should do the job. Probably more than one application.
Thatching and aerating may be spreading it.
I would not put lime down unless your soil testing indicates needing it. I think your local count horticultural agent should be able to help there .
Personally, I am not a grass-lawn person since it is murderous in zone 8b where I live. I remember lush, green, fesue lawns where one could romp and play with no problems whatsoever in the north. Here we fight fire ants on a daily basis.
As far as finding good sources on the Internet, your land grant University in your state should have a site. The University of Massachusetts site is www.umass.edu/umext. Some local Master Gardeners might have a more specific way to fight your particular fungus, if it is common enough.
Q: I have had a monkey puzzle growing in my garden for about 25 years its a tad spindly and new growth always goes a brown color shortly after appearing. What fertilizer mix would you suggest?
A: Monkey puzzle (Araucara araucana) is considered an evergreen species and deciduous shrubs and a few are herbaceous perennials.
They need shelter form strong drying winds and will tolerate full sun or part-shade beneath a canopy of other trees. Even though your plant is very mature has its surroundings changed any ??
Moist fertile soils will suit them well but even poorer soils will produce hardier longer living specimens. So fertilizing does not seem to be an issue. Unless there is a definite yellowing and lack of evident nutrients being received by the tree.
The new growth may be being attacked by something microscopic, give it a once over and see if there is something "eating" on the new stems?.
Brown often indicates dryness and this you would be able to tell right away.
Q: I have the red hot pokers in my flowerbeds. This is their second year, and they have bloomed already and are done blooming. Do I clip the spent stalk, or do I leave it to just dry? If I do clip the stalk, will that force it to bloom again? Or do I gather the seeds after the stalk dries?
A: I would wait until the bloom dies back on its own. If you want the plant material to get bigger for next season.... snip the half spent bloom or full spent bloom. The energy of the plant goes two ways. If the bloom is taken off, the plant resumes its direction to the production of the plant, if you leave the bloom the energies will then go on to create mature seeds.
Often mother nature does a second bloom but I am not familiar that the poker plant will do this. Sometimes if the season is long enough a second bloom might appear.
Q: I have a large patch of vinca in my garden. I love it but would like to transplant some of it to other areas of my yard. Do I just dig in and move a clump of it to a new spot? What groundcover can tolerate full shade?
A: Yes, You can just dig a clump of the vinca from the ground, making sure you get a deep shovel of the root system and transplant it to a new location. Water in well and watch for a week or two. The earlier you do it in the season the better it will transplant. It is very forgiving.
Other shade ground covers are : ajuga (sun or shade), mondo grasses (there are several lengths varieties), ivy, Bishop's Weed (partial shade), Pachysandra, wild strawberry.
Q: My Crape Myrtle is about 8' high and is halfway hidden by surrounding shrubs, which are as tall as the Crape Myrtle. I would like to replant the Crape Myrtle. Is this possible at all? What would be the best time to do this? We live in Charlotte NC.
A: Yes you can transplant the crape myrtle, but I would not do it until the fall at this point. The bush will be blooming in June and by transplanting you will put it out of sync or it may not bloom at all.
If you do decide to go ahead (since it is only 8 ft tall) and transplant it be sure to get a large enough root ball of dirt around it and have everything ready to just carry it to the new location. Water well and water for a couple of weeks afterwards.
I would also do it early in the morning to eliminate wilting, shock and strain.
Your chances with the smaller tree just may be OK to do it now.
Q: Please help me with my kitchen window box...outside it gets complete shade. I have begged my husband for YEARS to make me a new one. This one is approximately 6 foot long, 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Not as wide and deep as I want, but apparently this year I have to make do again!!
I need some height, but a lot of trailing. In the past I have used impatiens, begonias, dusty miller, and they do ok. I really would like to have a different but easy garden this year. We live on a farm and the hummers adore the flowers I plant. If you could advise me on a very colorful and full window box, I would appreciate it!!
A: You have made very good selections in the past for your shady window box.
Impatience, begonias, vinca major (variegated-training), petunias, are some flowers that bloom in the shade. You are limited to blooming in the shade.
Dusty miller usually requires a fair amount of sun and if you have grown it in the past congratulations........
How about a white and green spider houseplant?. . I use them all the time outside - for lightening up an area.
Small caladiums also add a lot of color to shady areas.
Or variegated ivy.
Q: I live in central California, zones 8/9, and my callas (Zantedeschia aethiopica) come up very strong and bloom well in the late winter to spring. About now (mid-May - starting to feel like summer!), however, the stalks turn yellow and they start to fall over. They are in an area that gets morning shade and mostly filtered afternoon sun, and there is a soaker hose that waters their bed. Are they getting too much or too little water? They are multiplying very steadily each year and seem otherwise healthy. Also, my sister would like to have some. How and when do I go about dividing them?
A: I suspect you are correct with the yellowing of the callas. Shade and too much water will create this situation. I would cut back on the watering.
You can divide after they have bloomed. Dig with a pitchfork or shovel and get as much as you can in a clump and then massage to root ball and break away. This will lessen the root damage. They should loosen easily. Do this in the early morning and plant as soon as possible. Water in and only fertilize after they have acclimated to their new area.
Q: Hi! I have two questions I need your advice with:
1) Can I transplant daylilies in the spring? I didn't get around to it last fall, and they are very thick in places.
2) I have two lovely African violets, but the leaves keep dying. The leaves begin turning brown on the ends and it just seems to slowly creep up the entire leave and dies completely. They've never done this before and I can't figure it out. Help!
A: Yes, you may divide daylilies in the spring, in fact spring, summer and in the fall. Being careful to water in the summer during the drought periods. Doing so may put the plant a little out of sync especially if it has set buds (and I would not recommend doing it then). Be sure to amend the new location a tad and water in well. There will be some stress and strain but these plants are very durable and will zip back into shape fast. Fertilize about a month later.
In reference to your African violets. Be sure you are not over fertilizing the plant. Salts builds up and becomes crusty on the soil and the leaves will drop off. Also do not over water and be sure to water from the bottom up. (Water in a saucer and then drain off the saucer. Bottom watering is always better for these plants.) Good bright light. An Eastern window is best. Never full sun.
Q: I notice that 'Zones' are mentioned in the details of new plant varieties - do they refer to Europe or is this just an American thing?
A: There are growing zones for all over the world. Definitely not just an American thing.
Q: I have recently moved to a new property. I have a big garden with very little topsoil and lots of blue clay. I have three young children who love to play outside but at the minute, the garden is a mess. My husband and I have tried to dig the blue clay out but this proving to be a huge challenge. Is digging it out our only option, or is there anything else we can do?
A: Clay can be amended with tons of organic material. This not only helps to balance the composition but will add some nutrient value. However, there is a product called Permatil that can be added to a clay soil and this will help to break up the situation.
I do not know if you can find it in your area......I did a 'ask jeeves' search and there were two possibilities where you might track it down. While living in SC at one time, we used the product a lot with the master gardeners. Anything that is very well composted can be used to amend the soil. You can probably buy some bags of commercial compost and start with that. Even some very very fine gravel will break up the clay soil. Sadly with clay soil the soil particles are very close to one another, the drainage is very poor, and you do not want that.
It is a lot of lot of work and will not happen overnight.
I admire your work energies because you know you need to correct the situation.
Q: Hi, I am living in Hayward, Ca (Bay Area -East Bay Lots of sun and heat) I have tried to plant zucchini for two years. Soil has a lot of clay so I softened with compost, peat new soil etc. I planted zukes on a raised bed. They grow great, but the fruit rots before it matures. It turns yellow then blech. Any thoughts. I have been feeding miracle grow and deep watering with a soaker hose 3 times a week.
A: My thought is perhaps you are over watering your zucchini. Try cutting back on the water??
Also a well balance fertilizer or a slow release for veggies. That way there will be no fast and furious growth, more than what the zuke does normally?
Sometimes a severe change in temperature form hot to cool will make buds drop off.
Q: I wish to raise all blue potatoes with 15 children at school. We need to plant them in containers so the children can finish raising the potatoes at home when school is out in June. We live in the southeast. Do you have suggestions that will make this painless and easy for the children? I was worried about too wet, too dry, not the right soil, diseases, etc. Thank you for any help you can give.
A: This sounds like an excellent idea and project to be doing with children. Yes, keeping it simple and doable is a good idea.
I suggest getting 'free' buckets from the deli department of your local grocery store. Plastic light ones will do. Drill holes in the bottom for drainage. Use very loose potting soil. You may be able to cut it with just regular top soil. 99 cents per 40 lbs. Usually at the big boxes ( K-Mart or Wal-Mart ) ...I suggest you try and get the store bought soil as to be a sterile as possible since this is going to be in a container.
Use a potato that grows well in your area. One potato may have many eyes to use.
Remember to advise the growers - 6 plus hrs of sun is necessary. Having a bucket to move around is easy.
Water when needed...... the finger trick one inch down will tell if the potatoes need to be watered. Rain water is best....
Pick the weeds - a tiny layer of mulch can be used if needed.
Black buckets will stay warmer than white buckets. This is just a mention and may make a difference with the growing rate.
Having a picture of the potato might be interesting for the children. And expected harvest date......
Are they going to keep a weekly record?
Maybe some potato recipes??
This sounds like fun!!
Q: I think I remember that Ruth Stout said you could 'plant' potatoes on top of straw. Then when sprouted, add more straw.... and on and on.. to the top of the container.
A: Yes, Ruth Stout, a wonderful gardener, did plant potatoes in the iris beds and onions in the hay. She, as you probably know, gardened in Vermont an talked of frost in JUNE !!!!! She talked about putting on too much mulch because she did not want to get hit by the frost.
One advantage of growing potatoes on top of the ground is that as soon as the blossoms begin to drop off, the hay can be carefully lifted and some small potatoes separated from their stems without hurting the mother plant.
Q: Can I transplant a peony from a shady spot to a sunny spot? On the other hand, do I need to wait until the end of the season?
A: Yes, you can transplant the peony but I would do it very early in the season as the plant is just emerging. Try to get the 'whole' clump out and get it settled again before the plant emerges and the blooms start. On the other hand, you can wait until the plant has bloomed for the season so it will have the remaining months to settle in before the winter again.
The point is not to disrupt the natural timing of its growth.
Do not forget to mulch in the heat of the summer to retain moisture for the plant and to keep the soil a tad cooler.
You may even want to take this opportunity to divide the plant IF it is too large.
Q: I bought three peonies roots/eyes from a mail order catalog. The catalog said they would send them at the proper planting time. I received them May 10. I thought peony roots were to be planted in the fall. Should I plant them now or wait? They are currently in sealed plastic bags and dry.
A: I think you will be ok planting the 'eyes' of the peonies this spring. I looked at four references and none spoke of planting or not in the spring. However dividing should be done in the fall.
By waiting four more months it will just put a strain on the dried eyes.
Make sure there is good drainage for the new plantings. Fertilize accordingly (once they get established) and mulch no more than 3 inches for the summer dry months.
Q: I planted peonies I rescued from a neighbor (she was gong to put round up on it!) so I dug it up and boy does it look brown. Will that come back? I dug it up mid summer and I live in zone 4-5.
A: Peonies take a long time to come back from stress and even when transplanted by division in late summer or fall they are slow to re-establish themselves. Since it is fall already try dividing them if they are large enough or just treat them as if you divided them and cut off the stems and plant the sections into the soil 1-3 inches deep.
If the plant has "peony wilt" (Affected shoots wilt, wither, and turn brown). The infection generally starts at the stem base, which may become covered in a gray, fuzzy, fungal growth resembling gray mold. Per American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of Gardening, "Cut out and destroy the affected shoots of peonies to below ground level and spray with Bordeaux mixture (commercially called Bordocop, or Bordo-Mix). Thin out dense plants. Spray the foliage with ferbam (commercial names: Carbamate, Ferberk, Hexaferb, Knock mate)." We are never thrilled with recommending herbicide so use sparingly.
Q: I have some camellias in my front flowerbed. They look horrible - how often should be fertilize them and how should we take care of them after that.
A: Camellias should be fertilized in mid-spring and early summer. You can also top dress annually with shredded bark. Camellias like to grow in moist but well drained, rich acidic soil. Their blooming will depend and fluctuate with the temperatures and rainfalls of your area.
Q: I have some peat moss growing around my house. What features allow the moss to be successful? Is it water, soil or what?
A: I think what you have growing is just moss. You can count on moss growing when the humidity is high, there is a certain degree of shade, and plenty of rain.
Q: I have a Gloxinia and the flowers and leaves have died. I thought the plant was completely gone, but it started to come back almost like a vine. I was reading on your site that you should withhold water from the plant for 6-8 weeks and then repot. Is that I what I should do now or should I continue to let it grow?
A: The gloxinia, native to Brazil, is a plant for the greenhouse. It sometimes can be successfully grown if the conditions are met in a home situation.
It should be kept out of the strong sun. It is a tuber plant that can be stored after it blooms. They will bloom about every 6 months . Fluorescent lights will help the plant greatly improve its bloom.
High humidity and a moist soil is good.
Often very similar in caring for an African violet.
Yes, I would let there be a rest period for your plant. Otherwise, the plant will be struggling to reproduce and will fail before its glory.
This plant is nearly a stemless herb forced by florists to give a display for early spring holidays. You may want to water from the bottom. You may want to fertilize once a month.
Q: Hi, I was just reading your article on winter propagation of trees and shrubs. Is there a way to get a willow tree, or any tree in that matter, to grow roots without using any growth hormone?
A: Sure. If hormone rooting compound is not used, the cutting should still take. Remember the compound is for adding hormones to help the cutting grow better and faster and aids in prevention against fungus and bacteria.
Making sure you cut with a sterile knife (wiping with rubbing alcohol helps) will help you in getting a better and clean cutting.
I just did 100 confederate rose cuttings from November of 2002 through January of 2003, and I merely cut with a sterile pair of pruners and placed in clean water. All have sprouted roots. And most have started sprouting their leaves. I did not use any hormone powder. Since I was using water as my propagation medium a hormone powder would not be beneficial.
Clean sand often works nice without hormone powder.
Using a hormone powder just increases the percentage of success.
Q: HELP!!! I have a wonderful lavender plant that I have grown in a pot and have moved indoors for the winter. It has been so happy and has grown to about a foot and a half. We had a gorgeous day two days ago and I put it outside to get some warm air (55 degrees) but ...eesh...forgot about it and last night we had a hard freeze. Today it is forlorn to say the least. The leaves are dark and wilted. There are a few smaller stalks that were in the interior of the plant that are still green. My question is, can it be saved or have I killed it?
A: You still might be able to 'save' your lavender. I would cut away anything that looks doomed. Give it that TLC inside. Do not over water. Wait and see what perks up. Time will tell. I doubt that the root system got zapped......
Do not fertilize 'til the plant is outside for the summer.
The when spring comes around s-l-o-w-l-y move the lavender outside.
Q: Can my cold-bitten plant survive?
I have a pothos that was very healthy until a few days ago. I accidentally left her out in the cold (around 30 degrees F). Nearly all leaves are dark, dark green, very wilty, and just do not look too great. I tried giving her a little room temperature water, and have kept her in a warm room (around 65 degrees F). There are a couple of leaves that look like they've come back, but I'm not sure what to do about the rest. Should I cut them back & let the new ones in? Will she come around? Any help you can give would be appreciated. I've had her for about 9 years and would hate to lose her now.
A: Pothos are tropical plants and gong below 50 degrees is stressful for the plants. However I have seen them survive from those temperatures. I assume the plant is in a pot. I would definitely move this plant indoors for the cooler and winter months. Do not over water at this point. These leaves are thick and will maintain a certain amount of water. Time will tell. Do not fertilize. Good bright light - but not full sun. Do not cut back. What will die back will do so naturally.
Q: My daughter just got engaged in October, it is now November and she has decided she wants tulips for her July 2003 wedding. The only tulips I can buy at this time I found at a local nursery and are a early to mid season bulb. If I go buy them is there any tips I can use to guarantee that we will have tulips for the wedding besides staggering the planting every two weeks. My garden has thick mulch on it so the ground is not frozen solid, or I can keep chilled in my potting shed, or in the refrigerator in the basement, and maybe plant in April for July bloom. Thank you for any suggestions.
A: Congratulations on your daughter's wedding.
Doing tulips for a July wedding is going to be tricky.
For everything, there is a season and tulips are spring bulbs.
You will have to stagger the planting time of the bulbs for a bloom if you can control the temperature. Tulips require a cooler temperature to grow and in July I am afraid outside is just going to be toooo warm. If they do bloom, they will go fast.
If you have access to a refrigerator for potted bulbs, you may have to do them all forced. You could even practice now. Count backwards for the period of time for bloom and see what you can do.
A florist might be able to get them for you out of season. But for a price.
I must tell you my son just sent me a pot of tulips from Smith and Hawkins and they are just about to go into bloom. I have placed them outside so I might make them last longer and prevent them from not going into bloom until Christmas. Therefore, these were forced sometime back.
I would also contact www.parkseed.com or www.whiteflowerfarms.com and see what they can do for you.
Q: I live in Oklahoma how can I keep my Pentas and Begonias alive this winter? Can I cut them to the ground, cover with mulch and expect them to return in the spring?
A: Keeping pentas and begonia through the winter (since they are probably considered annuals in your area) will be difficult. Both plants are considered to be tropical and often do get zapped even in zone 8. I would attempt to mulch but do not be disappointed if they do not respond in the spring. You might try digging them up and keeping them through the winter months in containers and good bright light. Or taking some cuttings from the begonia.
Q: I live on a lake in central Wisconsin I am creating a buffer between lawn and lake with vinca over planted with purple cone flowers. Does vinca minor, (periwinkle) have to be mulched in the winter, to protect it.... Also what is the best way to propagate purple cone flowers from seeds, should I just spread the seeds in the fall and hope for the best? I love your site and the care you take with your gardening answers, I am trying to naturalize our land and hope to get rid of most of the lawn eventually to spend more time with the Grandkids.
A: Periwinkle may need some shallow mulching. This would only enhance the growing next season after if breaks down. I suspect you are talking about the perennial ground cover? Especially if this is the first year it has been planted. Normally I think a blanket of snow should do it.
Cone flowers self seed very readily. But you can take matters into your own hands next early spring by saving a few seeds now and directing them to areas you want more color. Some how Mother Nature's plantings do very well by her own hand.
Naturalizing is GREAT !!! I snitch lawn every chance I get. That ol' lawnmower just does not get the workout it use to.
Q: How do you root a confederate rose?
A: Rooting a confederate rose is relatively simple and should be done some time soon. Mine is in full bloom right now. Certainly after the first light frost will do.
Simply cut branches into 6 to 9 inch lengths.
Take a jar filled 3/4th with water and line the cuttings in the jar.
Place in a warm spot thru the winter making sure the water level is always there. (Somewhere where you can check the progress and exchange for clean water every 2 weeks or so.) By spring you should have all the branch cuttings with roots.
Then pot up in 6 inch pots and then transplant to happy homes.
Q: Hi, I was wondering if I could take the cuttings from a butterfly bush and start new ones. If so how would I do it?
A: You can take butterfly bush cuttings this time of the year, but they would be considered hardwood cuttings and have the endurance to go through the winter...depending on your location of the country they may need a coldframe for protection 'til spring. Take a cutting from this year's growth that is mature (bark) - not new green growth. About 6 inches the most. Just stick in a good rooting medium like sand with some peat mixed in or organic matter. Keep moist but not wet and soggy. By the springtime there will be many roots that have formed. Pot up in a gallon pot or new home area. Take good care not to let dry out since this is a very fragile and new plant.
Q: Our cherry tree has produce a small amount of fruit every year, but this year it had a lot of blossoms, but produced no fruit, and some of the fruit started coming out but dried up. What can we do to help this tree. It is 4 years old.
A: A cherry tree may take more than 3 years to produce good fruit. Dried fruit dropping off may be due to a drought season/stress/strain/severe weather/disease/webworm ?. If cherries fall to the ground prematurely they may be experiencing something called 'plum curculio'.
On a standard cherry tree about 6 -10 inches of growth is normal. You should have at least once inch of water per week. Apply compost or a slow-acting general purpose fertilizer in the spring before the tree starts to produce fruit.
My best advice is to get a local info sheet from the county extension agent. This is your tax dollars being put to work. They should have that information or the land-grant University in your state.
Q: I noticed a very nice garden on your site that was done almost entirely in sand. I have some large sandy spots in my yard I would like to do something with. How do I go about getting things to grow in sand?
A: Growing in sand is a challenge. Although it is excellent drainage, a fertilization program is needed since things leach so well. It is a continuous procedure to add amendments. Most plant material will grow in sand. but not alone. As I mentioned, you will need to build up nutrients that burn out quickly. Mulching is very important. And, of course, a watering program is important.
I grow in almost sand. I use soaker hoses and do have an in-ground watering system in place.
I am constantly amending with miloganite, small pine bark, topsoil, cow manure, rotted sawdust, and mulch with grass clippings. and I try to use native plants.
Nevertheless, I do love my sand for its drainage and ease of planting and transplanting.
Q: I live in Tampa Florida and have recently purchased the following plants from a local Home Depot, which plants I cannot seem to find on the internet to get info on care...could you help me with these?
- Lantana
- Crossandra Tropic Flame
- Heliconia
- Thyrallis (Yellow flowering bush)
- Purple Verbena
A: I will do the best I can:
Lantana.... is native in FL. Very drought resistant. Requires full sun and any soil will do. I trim and cut it back readily since it grows relatively fast. It is a perennial. Comes in several varieties...Does not need a lot of fertilizer.
Cossandra. tropic Flame..........definitely a tropical, full sun, blooms a long time, I think may grow a longer season for you where you are located. I think of it as an annual. Think leaves so water more. Fertilize monthly
Heleconia........there are about 100 species of this evergreen perennial. From the Central and South America regions. This plant requires humus-rich moist but well drained soil. Neutral to the acid side. Grow in partial shade Shelter form strong winds which easily can damage the foliage.. You can divide the rhizomes in the spring time.. Watch out for leaf spot, spider mites slugs and snail attack.
Thyrallis... I actually have this bush and love it. It is in bloom now. Quite a fast grower. Blooms yellow. Full sun. Keep well watered. It will acclimate to a lesser sun. Mulch well..
Purple verbena.........Full sun, not requiring any special soil. Grows fast. Does not like humidity. Does not especially need fertilizer but you can fertilize once a month to get the plant established. I suspect you will be able to grow this longer where you are located. Prune back in the middle of the hot summer. Fun to grow It will sprawl.
Good Luck
Q: I noticed you had a picture of the butterfly pea vine which grows wild and climbs......I haven't been able to find this seed anywhere.....can you help me?
A: The butterfly pea is a native of Florida and often times these seeds are not easy to find. This plant is mostly on the beaches along the coast.
Q: I live in Central Florida and have a fence around my yard. I was going to plant 6 bougainvillea bushes (don't know what type - dark fushia blooms) to grow up the fence and flow to the other side. However, only got 1 planted and then ran in to old sprinkler piping and tree trunks much too big to cut in half with 3 others. Decided to put in pots and have had various response from people - i.e., they love water, they hate water, they need room, keep them in smaller pots, etc., so here are my questions: 1) their size is about 8" around the top and 8" deep -- what size pot should I get; 2) should I put stones at the bottom of the pot; 3) how much water do I give them.........my back yard does not have a sprinkler system; 4) best fertilizer when initially planting and best fertilizer to keep them alive. I think my timing is poor but just want to keep them alive during a hopefully mild winter. Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.
A: I would recommend a size 10 inch pot. If you plant in a pot, it will require more water. If the plant were to be planted directly in the ground, it would require less watering.
Yes, putting some stones or crocking of some kind (shells, Styrofoam peanuts) is always a good idea. There have been some reports this is not necessary anymore but I do believe it is. I would put some crocking in if it were my plant.
You may have to water everyday. Test the soil with your index finger... if moist do not water. Clay pots dry out easily. You will learn your own watering habits and the plant well. If it droops you will need watering.
No not fertilize when planting...........let the plant adjust first. There is always stress and strain when repotting.
You can fertilize once a month. 10-60-10 is fine or just a water soluble Miracle Grow, Or Peters 20-20-20
Q: How can I propagate baby's tears. I have a plant that is getting "leggy"
A: You can propagate baby tears by pinching all the leggy parts of the plant. Strip off the bottom leaves and plant in good sterile soil. Pretty much they way most plants are done. Good bright light but not full sun. They should root rather quickly. Although things root better in the springtime and in the summer, I still would do it now.
Q: I am planning a move from Buffalo New York To Port Huron Michigan. I was wondering if I could take my Lavender garden and my clematis with me when I move. If you think this is possible, how do you think I should transport them? They are so beautiful. I hate to leave them behind.
A: Some states have restrictions about moving plants form one state to another. Call you local county extension office (should be listed in the while pages of the phone book) and ask.
If you are allowed transport -
I would dig as soon as possible and try to pot up in the biggest container you can afford in space. Water well. Bag on the bottom for cleanness. Once you arrive in Michigan I would plant quickly and get them settled before the winter weather . Mulch well .You may have to trim back in the spring. Better to get it in the ground before the winter sets in but do not encourage growth.
I suspect both plant materials will do well.
You might also mention this to the horticultural agent in the extension office and get their recommendations in case I forgot anything.
Q: Do you have any thoughts on plants for a septic leaching field? I know I cannot grow my vegetables there but I hate to see that big, sunny spot dedicated to nothing but grass.
A: Yes, I do have some thoughts on growing things on top of a septic tank. In general, I feel you should grow nothing more than grass over your tank area. I would not tamper with any root system that might interfere with the purpose of the leach field.
I know it is tempting , and one feels there is a waste of some great sunlight space and some good growing areas, but you might be casing a future septic problems.
You might get away with some annuals that have shallow root systems and grow for one season. That way you can keep a check on the plant material not to get out of hand.
Q: I just read your "What is a Weed" article. In my backyard, I have planted indigenous plants. I have found that these are always stronger than weeds & crowd the weeds out.
A: Yes. I totally agree.
You will have a better success rate with the natives: weed, wildflower, shrub, bush, tree or flower.
Continued good luck
Q: I have a four year old rose of Sharon bush that is growing nicely in terms of size and fullness - it is now about 5' tall. However, although it has produced healthy looking flower buds for the past two years, it has failed to bloom. I do get a very small, yellow "flower" on some of the branches. The plant gets plenty of sunlight and water. I live in northern NJ, where these shrubs generally have no problem blooming. Could it be reacting to the presence of regular rose bushes close by, or am I missing something it needs?
A: I think at this point I would try to use a 10-60-10 water-soluble fertilizer. Shultz makes one.
It is the middle number that will enhance blooming. Sometimes too much of regular fertilizer will cut down on the blooming. Believe it or not sometimes 'stress' forces a plant to bloom.
Q: Do you have any tips for propagating Neomarica from seed?
A: Propagation for neomarcia (IRIDACEAE) iris, is to sow the seeds at 59-64 F. in the spring. This "under glass" (greenhouse) method should be used with a soil-based potting mix, with added sharp sand and leaf mold, in bright filtered light, or in full light with shade from the hottest sun. Water moderately in summer, sparingly in the winter. You can apply a well-balanced liquid fertilizer monthly until full growth.
If you save the seeds form one season until the next, keep in a dry cool place where moisture will not affect sprouting and no fungal activity will occur.
Plantlets that appear may be reattached and rooted in water or in a well-drained rooting medium until medium growth for outdoor use. This is sometimes a much faster route to go.
The third ideal propagation method would be to divide in the very early spring or if you are located where the season is long in the fall.
Q: I have recently acquired a wildly overgrown plot of land. The ground elder and woodbine are persistent to say the least. I really don't want to use Round up but what are my alternatives?!
A: Your alternatives to herbicides are manual labor. Pulling everything out as much as you can. This includes the root. Hot water (which, if there is mature growth probably will not work. Hot boiling water works for small weed growth). Lastly - vinegar. Vinegar is an organic method for killing weeds.
Roundup is not as bad as the product image and certainly not as bad as a herbicide that is used by someone with a poison license. So depending who is going on your land (children and pets) I would think accordingly.
There mere definition of a herbiCIDE is scary and I understand your qualms.
Q: I hope that you can help me. I bought a Hibiscus plant about two months ago and the truth is that I don't really know how to take care of it. I water it every day in order to always keep the soil moist, but besides that I don't really know exactly how much sunlight it needs or if I should be giving it any other plant food. Please help me cause this is my favorite flower and I think that it might be dying. (it has tiny holes, almost burned spots on the foliage, maybe bugs?)
A: There is an annual hibiscus plant, a tropical hibiscus and a perennial hibiscus. All hibiscuses are a members of the mallow family. All require plenty of water and plenty of sunlight.
If it was growing in the shade and you moved it into bright full sunlight, there will be sunspot burns. Just pinch these off. Or, move it back into the shade and acclimate gently.
Insects can be treated with a soap solution. One tablespoon per gallon of ivy soap. Flush through the foliage and pot. Rinse well. Repeat for several applications until you see no insects.
Fertilize once a month with an all purpose fertilize. 20-20-20 water soluble. You can also give it an extra high bloom fertilizer if you like. Do not over due it.
If it is tropical bring in for the cooler and winter seasons.
If it is a perennial, plant in the ground and prune back in the early spring.
Water frequently as the leaves are somewhat thin, but do not keep wet. Moist to dry is fine.
Q: I was wondering if you have seen other varieties of the Bird Of Paradise?
I was born and raised in SC and was brought up believing that we had one of these plants in our yard. Now I have one here in my yard and it has not bloomed yet!
All I can tell you is that it has a very pretty, delicate bloom with some parts looking like whiskers! It was a pretty pinkish bloom with some yellow if I remember correctly! Beautiful bloom!! It has seedpods on it and the seeds remind you of baby lima beans as far as shape but are brown in color!
I got my "tree" from a seed my sister sent me from hers! She got hers from my mother's yard and she got hers from her mother's yard! SO we all have known it as Bird of Paradise! I just have not had any blooms yet and it is at least four years old! It is really tall and the leaves on it are tiny! But then they were supposed to be! Wondering what to do and how to make it bloom!!
A: Yes, there areecies 5 spof Bird of Paradise. You indeed may have a Bird of Paradise, and it must be in a very protected, micro climate for it to survive the winters. The Bird of Paradise is form South Africa (Eastern Cape).
Unless I really could see the bloom, I could not ID the plant.
However, you must be doing something right to have all those plants especially from seed. From my sources, the seed may take three or more years to bloom. How lucky to share such a fun plant.
Q: I have two bird of paradise and have had them for 5-6 years. I got them when they were about 3-4 years. I have yet to get a flower on these. What type of fertilizer should I use to force the plant to bloom? They are grown indoors as I live in a cold climate. What can I do to ensure they flower and are properly taken car of?
A: Bird of Paradise are hard to bloom indoors. I would suggest 10-60-10 I believe Shultz puts this out. The middle number is for blooming. Make sure the plant has good bright light and no direct full sun. However you may want to 'summer' the plant outside after the threat of cold nights and days are over, definitely after your frost date.
These are tropical rainforest plants and should be treated as such.
Maybe even some misty spritzing.....
Often age and maturity of the plant as well as size is the key to blooming.
Q: Is there any way to prevent the overpowering smell of some otherwise lovely lilies?
A: I am afraid the best way to eliminate the overpowering smell of some of the lilies is to nip it in the bud. Pinch back and have less blooms. Those blooms come with smell and with the cost of less blooms you can diminish the smell.
Q: When is the best time to transplant black-eyed Susan's?
A: Black-eyed Susan's being a perennial can be divided very early in the spring before the plant has grown and certainly before the blooms have come in. A better time would be in the early fall so they will settle in and root before the winter.
Generally, there is a rule of thumb if the perennial blooms in the fall divide and split in the early spring. If the bloom appears in the spring divide and split in the fall. This way the plant will have the most beneficial time in growth.
Q: Why would the buds be dropping from my white brugmansia? Is it possible that I'm over watering? I live in South LA.
A: Yes, over watering may drop buds from a plant.
Trauma may also make buds drop - is something eating on them??
Also, when the temperatures get very, very, very hot they may not open at all. Blooming takes a back seat to hot temperatures. On the other hand, the bud may not develop at all.
If this plant is in a container, put in the shade for a few days and see if there is a recovery.
Q: While working in the garden this morning, I broke a branch off one of my azaleas. Can I propagate this to form a new bush? If so, can I do this without a rooting compound? I do not have any, and was wondering if there is any other household product that I could use in its place. Thanks for your help!
A: Hormone rooting compound does not necessarily need to be used when doing wood cuttings, although it never hurts to use it. Rooting compound such as "rootone" has hormones and a fungicide included it.
As for a replacement, recently I saw a program on HGTV where they used a willow liquid compound. Willow was chopped into 6 inch pieces and boiled for a few minutes. Then strained... and this was used as a dip for the material to be rooted. It evidently comprised of many hormones needed to inspire growth.
When using dry powdered root hormone I would recommend only tipping what was cut and tap.... too much is not a good thing.
Q: "Damping off". I planted a whole bed of red and white impatiens - was really thrilled with the look. Well, one by one they started damping off. I think I have about four impatiens left now. What's up? Dare I plant more in that bed? Is there anything I can do to prevent this condition?
A: Damping off is caused by a fungus. Too much water and humidity. I admire your efforts on trying to do seeds from scratch, and more people should exercise the practice and see the easy results. However, every so often these things do happen. Better circulation might help and keeping the area drier is also good and be sure to use sterile potting soil. Do not over fertilize. You can also 'dust' your seedlings and plants with a fungicide.
Q: I am looking for an outdoor plant that grows well upwards, like a vining plant. Nothing that is too overbearing, and something with nice looking leaves. Any advice? Thank you (Pensacola, Florida).
A: Since you live in the tropical part of FL there are many options. Cross vine/Carolina yellow Jasmine/Confederate Jasmine/Many of the clematis/coral vine/passionflower (butterflies love this) Japanese and American wisteria/Trumpet hineysuckle/Kolomikta vine/silver lace /Swamp jasmine/Evergreen wisteria/Armand clematis.
Most nurseries your way should have something that is pretty no fail and easy to do
Q: Last year I raised sweet potatoes from several that I had bought from the grocery store ... they had sprouted ... They were the best potatoes I have ever eaten !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The thing that was strange was, they bloomed !!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not kidding !! They really did bloom !!! A purple trumpet like flower ... I thought that it was a morning glory, then I started to pull them, and a branch with sweet potato roots broke off. I am trying to find out the name of these ... They had a rusty colored skin, and a rich, vibrant orange sweet flesh .
I was saving some in a box ... hidden from the goat I thought ... but she found the box, ate it, then "chowed down" on my sweet potatoes, leaving me several halves ... then came back for them too !!!!!!!!!!!!!
A: Wow.. what an experience. Goats eating potatoes/potatoes blooming everywhere. Sounds like an exciting place.
Unless I had a specific picture of the potato, I would not be able to identify it.
Vines
Q: I have a cinder block wall that joins the front yard and have built a flower bed at the top of the yard. I am looking for a vine or something that will "cascade" or "grow" over the wall. I prefer an evergreen. We live in zone 7 at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains in North Carolina.
Will the Lady Banks Rose (Rosa Banksaie) although it a climber, cascade down over the wall? Or, should I plant possibly a Trumpet Vine (not evergreen, but may cascade down better). Which will grow "down" the wall better, the Lady Banks or Trumpet Vine?
Do you have any other suggestions?
A: I think you will find that the Lady Banksia rose will become wild and unkempt. And perhaps too big a plant material for the cinderblock area. Although that would be a great bloom in the early spring or summer . The trumpet vine again would be lovely. Have you considered Jasmine ?? Confederate rose ? Or even just plain rug juniper for a solid green?
I suspect you do not want to contend with annuals each year like the wave petunia?? They cascade for a flood of color.
Cottoneaster will also cascade as a shrub.
Spirea is a small shrub that will cascade too, and a great white flower in the spring.
Q: Could you recommend a type of vine that could be grown in a shaded area?
A: I'm not sure where you are, I suspect, Ohio.
You may be looking for a perennial vine. It may die back for the winter months.
Ivies of most kind grow fast. (i.e. Boston Ivy - Parthenocissus tricuspidata)
Winter creeper (euonymus fortunei radican)
Greater periwinkle (Vinca Major) tolerates deep shade
Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala)
Q: I am not sure if you can help me but I will ask you anyway. Well I am looking for an outdoor plant that grows well upwards, like a vine. Nothing that is too over bearing, something with nice looking leaves. Any advice?
A: I am not certain if you are looking for a vine or just an upright shrub. I will give you vine information
Vines that grow in your zone with evergreen woody vines are:
| Allamanda Wooly Morning Glory Pipe Vine Herald's trumpet Bougainvillea Snowberry Grapevine Bleeding Heart Vine Showy combretum Wooly congea |
Jasmine Tropical Wisteria Bower vine Flame vine Barbados gooseberry, lemon vine Potato vine Brazilian golden Vine Clock Vine Asian Jasmine Confederate Jasmine Wax plant |
You have a great selection to choose from.
Going to a good nursery should able you to come up with a lot of these.
Q: Please help - can you suggest a very fast growing vine that would cover a 6' high and 50' long fence in one season (if I bought 3 or 4 or more of them)? One that is green year round would be optimal. I live in Southern Ontario, Canada. Thanks very much!
A: You may be looking for a perennial vine. it may die back for the winter months.
*Ivies of most kind grow fast. (Boston Ivy)
Honesuckle also is a fast grower (deciduous)
Wisteria (deciduous)
Grape vine (deciduous)
Trumpet Creeper
*Winter creeper (euonymus fortunei radican)
I know these all sound old fashion and simple, but they are the standards and they do work
Q: We tried growing cauliflower this year and the heads seem to be more yellow than I expected. We thought it would be more of a whiter texture. Are we doing something wrong?
A: Yes, cauliflower will grow a lot yellowier than you expected. This may have something to do with the variety of the cauliflower and the composition of your soil. Also, it is the sunlight that may cause the change. Later on you may notice that it will turn greenish. Towards maturity, you may want to tie up the large leaves with a rubber band to prevent and further change.
When it is time to harvest your vegetable, you may want to steam it in a little milk and this will whiten the veggie up.
You will still have the same nutrients and great taste.
Q: Have you any knowledge of an ice plant that is a ground cover, dark, glossy-green leaves, and a small red flower. It is pretty in hanging baskets but I cannot find it anywhere on-line.
A: The only knowledge I have of the ice plant also known as the livingstone daisy and in the family of AIZOACEAE is what I have read in the A-Z reference book.
Although I have grown many ice plants, the only red one I can come up with is the variety bellidiformis and gramineus.
These are probably not very common and unlikely you might find them in a big box nursery, but in a specialized one you might come across it.
I wish I had one to refer you to.
For certain it does not need a lot of watering, full sun and probably not in a fertile soil. Most ice plants respond to neglect. Other than seeing something in a catalog.
Afterwords: You had me going and I felt I did not service you well with an answer.
I have been looking in the Henry Field Catalog (IOWA 1-800-798-7842) and there is a Dragon's Blood Sedum that looks like an ice plant. It does well in zones 3-10.
Q: A friend gave me a cutting from an 'old' flowering bush that has small golden-yellow, mum-looking flowers on it. He said it was something his great-grandmother had and had been passed down through the years. The branches are covered with this small flower and the roots don't go too deep into the ground. The leaves come to a point and are jagged on the edges. He thought it was called 'Kerry' (cari, carri, etc.) but wasn't sure of the spelling. It really spreads and does well on a north or east side, he said. Can you help me identify this aged bush?
A: I believe what you are describing is a kerria japonica shrub. It is a deciduous shrub It grows well in zones 4-9. There are several varieties, yours may be a 'Albiflora', the 'Guinea' variety produces large single flowers.
Q: Last year I cut down two pine trees. This year I would like to plant two hydrangea trees. Is there anything I need to do to the soil before I plant?
A: I would make sure the pine tree roots have been taken out. Make sure the soil has a lot of organic material in it. Is there enough shade for the hydrangea bushes?
Use plenty of mulch to keep the soil form becoming too dry.
You might want to get a soil sample and check with your county's extension.
Q: I often hear reference to a "Cornell-Mix" in my garden reading. What exactly is that?
A: Simply put, a "Cornell-Mix" is mostly a vermiculite mixture. the formula is:
- 4 quarts vermiculite
- 4 quarts shredded peat moss
- 1 teaspoon of 20% super phosphate
- 1 tablespoon of ground limestone (dolomite)(or, you can substitute 2 tsp of Epsom Salt)
- 4 tablespoons of 5-10-5 (or similar fertilizer)
Q: I have just over 3 acres and my husband loves his grass. Finally, after 5 years he has allowed me some space. I would like a vegetable garden and a bright flower garden with a sitting area. My problem is I'm not sure if I can plant the flowers that close to the vegetables. We have no trees, a very slight roll, and a southern exposure. I have checked tons of sites for plans but have seen none. Any ideas?
A: Having flowers and a veggie garden together will work very well. The most important thing is having sun, which you have described. With the slight roll of the land, plant across it so there is no erosion.
You do not need any specific plans.
If you have one particular side that you enter from, be sure to plant the taller and larger things in the back.
Herb gardens can be done in a circular pattern but rectangle is good for a start. Even a free border would prove to be interesting.
A good basic gardening book like the Reader's Digest or Better Homes and Garden, from the Library have tons of ideas. The is no right or wrong way to get into gardening......trial and error sometimes prove the most interesting.
I hope this helps.
Q: I was curious to know if it is safe to use newspapers in a vegetable garden? Does the ink from the paper contaminate the vegetables?
A: Yes..... Most newspaper is printed with soybean ink. I would double check if you doubt this but I think it is more than safe. Just be sure not to use the ink colored or the slick papers of the newspaper.
Go compost away !!!!
Q: Please give me some info on the money plant or coin plant.
A: The money plant (Lunaria annua) is a very popular pass-a-long plant. I have been growing it for nearly 30 years. However, it grows in northern zones much better. Humidity seems to take a toll on it before it can shed its papery thin shell to see the 'silver money'. It is a biennial that will grow 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. It makes an excellent winter decoration. There is both a fragrant mix of white and purple flowers.
Q: I thought the Russian Olive was intolerant to shade.
A: I personally have Russian Olive growing in the shade. It seems to be doing well. I am not talking deep shade but high shade to medium.
Q: I live in North Central Kansas a fairly warm climate come July and August. I want to use soaker hoses on my tomatoes and peppers. Would you suggest running the soaker hoses down both sides of each row or should I run down one side and then cross over to the next row? I also have a number of walnut trees in the vicinity of my garden although none of my garden is directly under these trees they do border the garden. Will they interfere with the vegetable plants?
A: Using a soaker hose is an excellent idea for the tomato rows. Running them down one side of the row should be more than sufficient and then across to the next row. Be sure to soak early in the morning and finish by early morning.
Your walnut trees will of course compete for the moisture and watering of your tomatoes. They will love the extra water. Remember your tomatoes need at least 6 hours of sun and if there are a lot of roots in the vicinity when you prepare the tomato beds you might want to reconsider the location.
If there is plenty of gardening soil (up to two feet) you should be ok.
Q: I am very new to gardening and should really look this up on my own. However, I have a huge morning glory plant that I planted last spring. It is still there with maybe two buds. Because it has been so warm and I am in Virginia, I want it to grow again in spring. Do I leave the old plant and or how do I get seeds from the old plant. Can I plant new seeds for next year now? Also, what is the best book for me to read in order to be a better gardener. Thanks.
A: My suggestion on gardening books are many but...... I like an all purpose book, something like what Reader's Digest publishes. It is all encompassing. I believe Better Homes and Garden has one similar.
Then when you get more specific and go in one particular direction you can buy books on that subject, for instance - Roses.
Good Luck and Happy Gardening.
Q: I have a grapefruit tree given to me by a friend that she started from seeds. It reaches the ceiling and is very lush, but has never flowered. Is there anything I can do to coax it to produce flowers?
Why does it not flower?
A: Why plants do not bloom may be caused by several reasons. You may have to get some maturity on the plant before it will bloom. It is hard to tell.
Producing the exact tree from a seed may be difficult.
Honestly, I wish I had a better answer for you. Can you summer the tree outside? That may help.
Q: Thank you for your response. I live in Greenwood, SC. Zone 8. Red dirt, people here call it. I say it's clay, which we find hard to grow anything in. It seems to stay dry the majority of the time but the area we are working on now has just been cleared out and soil and mulch have been added which may help in holding moisture. We planted camellias there, along with hostas, azaleas, elephant ear, and caladiums. We need something in the background, near a fence that will grow large for privacy.
A: I believe you are correct - the red dirt is clay. (I lived in South Carolina for five years). There is a product called permatil that will help you. It is a supplement additive that will help break up the clay. I also used a lot of rotted sawdust mixed with horse patooties that helped. In two years or so, the soil started to break up better. Be sure you always add a lot of organic stuff in while planting.
I think Vibernums / Russian Olive / the new variety of Photina (the one that does not get disease) would be a great privacy fence. Russian Olive grows VERY fast. And great privacy. If it grows in your zone.
Zone 8 is pretty warm. Be sure the azaleas have lots of shade under pines.
Hostas can be heavy eaters, mulch well and fertilize every other month. You should get good cold winters for them.
Q: I have a hanging bougainvillea. I'm going to trim it back. Is there any way to replant the trimmings?
A: Bougainvillea can be propagated from softwood cuttings in early spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in the summer. You should use some bottom heat to help the process. Root hard cuttings can be done in the fall in a frost free area. You may want to try layering in early autumn or again in the spring depending how big your hanging basket is.
Q: Could you give me some advice regarding my Bougainvillea. It is in full sun (we live in San Diego, CA). I water and fertilize it regularly. It has rich healthy foliage but NO BLOOMS. Am I doing something wrong?
A: From the sounds of things you are doing everything correct.
I would suggest using 10-60-10 for a blooming fertilizer. Give it a shot according to directions (I think Shultz puts it out) and see if that will not help. The high middle number will produce blooms.
Q: I was wondering if you could help me with growing cantaloupes in Houston. I tried last year but had no luck. I had about two or three cantaloupes get about the size of a baseball but then something either ate it or it rotted---the side that was on the ground went bad. Someone suggested that I put hay under them.---This year we have really treated the area for insects --Do you have any suggestions.
A: Cantaloupes may struggle with a variety of conditions. Plant as early as you can when the season permits to combat some of the bugs and diseases. Plant in hills of 3 or 4 seeds and keep the best 2 sprout germinations. Use lots of organic material . I can not stress this enough. They are heavy feeders and will require plenty to water too.
Mulch to keep in that moisture. Stress caused by heat and drought will cause a crop failure. Pollination must occur, so hope there are bees and butterflies around.
Check the selection . See what variety does best in your area.
Q: I have a beautiful butterfly garden full of pentas. The pentas have split down near the base and look like they are dying. Can I cut these back and will they sprout new growth?
A: I would at least try cutting back a little below the split stem of the pentas. They are a pretty hardy plant material. Where I live they are cut down by the frost but would survive normally.
Good luck and keep me posted
Q: Can I plant a bed of both herbs and hydrangea bushes? What type of herbs are more compatible with the ideal conditions for hydrangea?
A: Herbs and Hydrangea require two different conditions.
Most herbs, (and there is always an exception to this) require sun and not particularly great soil, although they require good drainage and some maintenance.
Herbs do not necessarily need to be fertilized, some do and some do not. There are hundreds to choose from. Some are annual and some are perennial. Some are even biannual.
Hydrangeas require morning sun, high shade, good organic, well-drained soil. They need to be mulched well and will require fertilizers. Hydrangeas are perennial shrubs. They need to be pruned back close to the last frost date.
I suspect an herb to be used as a ground cover under the hydrangea might work. Also most ornamental herbs need sun.
A listing for your zone would be most helpful.
Lavender for instance will not grow well in humidity areas. Some herbs need a long growing season and others need short seasons.
Hope this helps a little.
Q: I am quite happy that the Solierolia Solierolii plant that I bought is still alive even after almost a year! However, according to the directions, I should fertilize my "Baby's Tears" vine once a month. Do you know what kind of fertilizer I should use? How much? And, should I divide the plant when it gets bigger?
Also, I have a spider plant that is in a glass of water. It is doing quite well. Should I try to plant it in dirt or will it die?
A: I would fertilize the baby tears vine with a 20-20-20 water-soluble fertilizer. Either Peters or Miracle Grow. That should be fine. If this appears to be too strong (and I do not think it is) you can dilute it by half.
Yes, you can physically divide the plant when the roots start coming out the bottom or the plant is pushed upward in the container, and the plant is much too big for the container. In addition, you will notice it will require more water and perhaps wilt in between watering.
Spider plants will grow in water only so long. It is a great way to propagate and get roots going. Planting it in good sterile potting soil will be fine for it. Be sure the pot is large enough. You then will not have to water, even though it was growing in water.
Q: What is the best way to fertilize perennials?
A: Most perennials do not require a lot of fertilizer, but certainly in the spring an application can be done. 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. A time release may take care of it for 30, 60, or 90 days. Water soluble tend to wash thru quicker. And perhaps a second application mid-summer, watered in well.